WHITER LIGHTFAST WOOLS
Latest Updates
A two-bale white wool commercial trial, including measurements of colour and photostability through each processing stage, has now been completed. The trial resulted in wool fabric that bleached to a whiteness approaching that of bleached cotton. Sufficient yarn is available from the trial available to produce ~600 m of fabric. Sample garments will be produced for assessment by commercial partners to determine the value proposition for whiter wool. This will be the basis for a business case to be prepared by November supporting further R&D into whiter wool production. Some initial laboratory pastel dyeing trials have been carried out at CSIRO and Macquarie Textiles on fabric from the commercial trial.
A technical report on the correlation between the intrinsic fluorescence of wool and wool colour has given some interesting results showing a moderate negative correlation (-0.28) between Y-Z and tryptophan (Trp) fluorescence, and a strong positive correlation (0.45-0.66) between Y-Z and visible fluorescence. However these correlations for different IN flocks appear to be significantly influenced by latitude. This supports the unusual hypothesis that Trp residues are increasingly converted to visible fluorophores at lower latitudes.
Three scientific papers for Animal Production Science have been accepted.
About the Project
This project will deliver to both breeders and processors simple tools which improve their ability to enhance the whiteness and photo-stability of Australian wool, with the intent of producing using natural means Merino wool of comparable whiteness to conventional peroxide bleached wool. In so doing, a major competitive disadvantage of wool in trans-seasonal apparel markets will be addressed.
This project will provide Australian sheep breeders and apparel wool processors with the practical and cost-effective tools required to improve the whiteness and photo-stability of Australian wool by genetic and non-genetic means.
A key impediment to the development of markets for Australian Merino wool in trans-seasonal knitwear products is the need to use oxidative bleaches and fluorescent whiteners (at $3-5 per kilogram of knitted fabric) to achieve comparable levels of whiteness to competitor cotton products. 70-80% of the clip is of measured yellowness greater than 8.5 tristimulus units (Y-Z), where unbleached cotton is around 7 Y-Z units, and only 1-3% of the wool produced is of this level of yellowness. Accordingly, there is substantial economic merit in improving clean wool colour, where end-product markets require light pastel shade products, and the relevant New Zealand experience for fine Merino wool suggests a relative economic value of scoured colour of the order of $2-3 per ewe per year.
The economic impact of this research will be two-fold:
- Reduction in the need for use of oxidative bleaches and fluorescent whiteners to improve the whiteness of Australian wool fabrics, reducing costs and adverse environmental impacts.
- In concert with related research into specification of fabric ‘prickle’ and handle, this research will provide a catalyst for increased demand for Australian fine wool, through stimulating demand for lightweight, next-to-skin capable, trans-seasonal knitwear products.
Contact Details:
Dr Keith Millington
Project Leader
Whiter Lightfast Wools
Tel: 03 5246 4792
Email - keith.millington@csiro.au
CJ Hawkins Homestead, University of New England, Armidale NSW 2351